vrijdag 29 april 2011

Ilocos Sur

The entire Ilocos region which then stretched from the town of Luna (Namacpacan) in the province of what is now part of La Union to Bangui in what is now part of Ilocos Norte and was then called by its ancient name Samtoy (from the phrase “sao ditoy, which in Ilokano meant “our dialect) and the inhabitants built their villages in small bays on coves called “looc” in the local dialect. The natives by the coast were referred to as “Ylocos” which meant “from the lowlands” (the “Igorots” of the Cordilleras on the other hand meant “from the highlands”). Subsequently, the Spaniards called the region “Ylocos” or “Ilocos” and its people “Ilocanos.”

Philippines Ilocos Sur

Early morning scenes of Vigan
Photo by weiber

Before the expedition of Spanish conquistador Juan de Salcedo (grandson of another important Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi) arrived in Cabigbigaan, which was also known as Bigan (spelled as Vigan now and the capital of the current Ilocos Sur) on 13 June 1572, the region was already a thriving hub of international commerce with significant settlements of Chinese, Japanese and Malay traders – 408 kilometers north of Manila. Eventually the region became an important player and stop on the maritime silk route. On a side note, not a lot of visitors know that the name Vigan derived its name from a lush plant species of the taro family named “Bigaa”. Salcedo eventually declared Vigan as the capital and the headquarters of the Spanish settlement in the North and called it Villa Fernandina de Bigan and right after, the entire Northern Luzon as an encomienda and himself as the encomendero of Vigan and the Lieutenant Governor of Ylocos until his death in July of 1574. With this, Vigan prominently established itself as the center of the Hispanic presence in the north and this is pretty much evident with the fine fusion of European and Asian architecture in the city, best exemplified in the houses with their airy balconies, wide-opened windows and an unmistakable Iberian, Chinese, and Mexican air permeating the cobble-stone streets of Calle Crisologo in the Mestizo District also known as the Kasanglayan (literally “where the Sangleys/Chinese live”). The Mestizo District has the highest number of ancestral houses and colonial era architecture which was mostly built by the Chinese merchants who settled, intermarried and became the local elite of the 19th century. The houses were the result of a continuing evolution of the traditional Igorot nipa hut of the highlands with a distinct combination of Mexican and Chinese styles and Filipino touches like sliding capiz shell windows. A walk through the Kasanglayan felt like being thrown back into the past, an amazingly beautiful experience. Sometimes, referred to as the Intramuros of the North, the Kasanglayan has a different vibe altogether – it is quieter, and more laidback than its counterpart in Manila, but no less important nonetheless.

Vigan, unlike its sister cities of Manila and Cebu, survived the massive bombing campaigns of the advancing Americans during the second World War which left it relatively well-preserved and intact, went on to become the only Philippine city to become recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage City- the best example of a surviving European colonial town in Asia. According to rumors, Ilocos was called the “Rimat ti Amianan” or “Treasures of the North” because the hastily fleeing Japanese Imperial Army, buried their treasures plundered from the different Southeast Asian countries in the caves of Ilocos, fueling then a treasure hunting boom. Being the most popular destination in the Ilocos Region, it was quite a surprise not to find a lot of foreigners traveling in this area. We saw creeping commercialization in the area though, with souvenir shops occupying a significant lot of the ground floors of houses, however, this has not diminished its obvious charm as commerce has more or less successfully blended quite well with the area- with Vigan walking the fine line between outright commercialization and preserving its identity.

It was a big relief to hear from locals that constructions in the city are regulated and must meet certain standards which probably explained why the newish McDonald’s in the city center looked a lot like an oversized chapel with its own tiny belfry adjacent to the massive St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral which is also known as Vigan Cathedral. St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral was constructed in an earthquake baroque style, thick and massive and Salcedo himself supervised its construction in 1574. Horse-drawn carriages or calesas are de rigeur transportation for most tourists within Vigan and neighboring towns with the side of St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral being converted into a quirky calesa parking lot. Rides are charged by the hour (PhP 150) and usually the “kutsero” or the calesa driver will double as your tourist guide taking you around the city’s numerous museums, and important sites. If you have enough time to burn or if you are staying in Vigan longer, a calesa ride is actually an excellent way to enjoy this beautiful city.

However, if you are in Vigan for a quick stopover, the best way is to go around in one of those tiny tricycles – motorbikes with side cars. When we say it is tiny, it is REALLY tiny and although they can seat two people inside properly, it wasn’t very comfortable but a whole lot faster than going around clickity-clacking in a slow calesa. Usually, a tour with the tricycles would set you back about PhP150-PhP200 for about an hour. Make sure you haggle and you get change. The drivers are generally courteous and they won’t bug you for more – a very welcome respite from the monster drivers of Manila. I would highly advise you to secure a map of Vigan and other Ilocos Sur sites at the Tourism Office near the Plaza Burgos (they are open even on weekends and the staff are ACTUALLY very helpful, friendly and knowledgeable) and then decide which places you want to head out to.

As the same with anywhere else in the Philippines, the Spaniards conquered the region by the sword and by the cross: Augustinian missionaries evangelized the region and established parishes and built beautiful churches that still stand today. In 1578, by virtue of a Spanish Royal Decree, the seat of the old diocese of Nueva Segovia in Lallo, Cagayan was transferred to Vigan cementing the city’s reputation as the center of religious, political, social, and cultural activities in the north. The Arzobispado de Nueva Segovia which is the only surviving 18th century arzobispado and the official residence of the Archbishop of Nueva Segovia and the former headquarters of the first Philippine President General Emilio Aguinaldo in 1889 still stands today across the equally historic Plaza Salcedo. The Arzobispado charges PhP20 per person as entrance fees. Plaza Salcedo features the the 17th century Juan de Salcedo monument, the oldest of its kind in the entire Northern Luzon. Plaza Salcedo was also the site where the first Filipina to lead a revolt in the Philippines, Gabriela Silang, who was executed by hanging. Gabriela Silang was the wife of another famous revolutionary, Diego Silang who was the appointed as the Governor of Ilocos during the brief British Occupation of the Philippines until he was shot in the back by Miguel Vicos – a close friend who sold him out to the Spaniards.

As for foreigners undeservedly complaining about the lack of culture in the Philippines – Vigan spits culture in every street corner- its rich and colorful history screaming in many of its museums (most if not all, allow camera use inside the museums)– the most famous of which are the Crisologo Museum and the Burgos Museum. The Crisologos are one of the most prominent political dynasties in Ilocos Sur and their ancestral house which is now converted into some sort of a family shrine recounts its bloody history which in turn mirrors the relatively recent history of the province. On display are the glass-encased bloodied pants of long-time Congressman Floro Crisologo, the same ones he wore during his assassination in 1970, right in the front pews of the St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral. Years before that, his wife, then-Governor Carmeling Crisologo was also a victim of an ambush in 1961 – the same Chevrolet which she rode is also on display in the museum. Likewise, newspaper reports of the infamous arson committed by Floro’s son Bingbong (Yes, a lot of Filipinos have doorbell names) who was eventually sent to jail in Muntinlupa are on display. Bingbong, was released ultimately because of good behavior, notwithstanding the double life imprisonment meted out to him for the misdeeds and went on to become a Bible-preacher and then recently, following the footsteps of his parents, a congressman himself. Entrance to the Crisologo Museum is free, but donations are strongly suggested by the lady we suspected was the curator/caretaker.

The Padre Burgos National Museum (built in 1788) was a different story but no less controversial by itself. It was the former residence of the renowned priest Padre Jose Apolonio Burgos, a Filipino criollo, one of the three martyr priests that were executed by the Spaniards in 1872 for treason and fomenting the Cavite Mutiny. The execution of the three priests by garrote inflamed Filipino revolutionists’ passions, among them the Philippine National Hero, Jose Rizal who dedicated his novel El Filibusterismo to their memory. The museum charges a measly PhP10 entrance fee and aside from the usual memorabilia of its prominent former resident, it also has a respectable collection of archaeological and ethnographic collections which include a partially opened Itneg/Tinguian coffin with human remains inside. The museum also has the 14 Esteban Pichay Villanueva paintings depicting the Basi revolt of 1807 (including paintings about hangings, beatings and other curiously gruesome scenes). Right next to the museum, is the Provincial Jail which was built in 1657 and was the birthplace of former Philippine President Elpidio Quirino on 16 November 1890. Other notable museums in the area are the Museo Nueva Segovia, Museo San Pablo, and the Syquia (PhP20/person entrance fees) and Quema Mansions.

Philippines Ilocos Sur

Vigan weaving
Photo by Ryan Buaron

Being a fan of traditional Filipino weaving myself, I could not resist a trip to Barangay Camangaan (about 10-15 minutes away by tricycle from the Tourism Office near Plaza Burgos), home of the famous Vigan weavers which are known to produce abel, a local cotton fabric into shawls, hankies, placemats, blankets, gowns and even Barongs – the traditional Filipino shirt. We ended up having 2 Abel Iloco blankets at under PhP400. Although Abel Iloco products are sold in the shops of Kasanglayan, the prices in Barangay Camangaan are unbeatable plus you will be able to see local weavers in action. For pottery enthusiasts, the pagburnayan is a must-stop. Early Ilocanos used the burnay (earthen jars) for the fermentation of basi (sugarcane wine) and bagoong (shrimp paste) with some of the existing kilns dating back to 1823.

Governor Chavit Singson’s Baluarte meanwhile features a zoo, although I am not totally sold on the idea of keeping animals in cages – Baluarte’s animals which include a lot of deer, sheep and a couple of alpacas, roam freely in quite a reasonably wide, open space. Tigers and other animals like the sugar gliders, and pythons are in cages. How these endangered animals made their way to Baluarte is anybody’s guess. Baluarte also has a skeet shooting range (how a shooting range ended up in a zoo was beyond reason), pony rides and animal shows (we spied a very young orangutan quite disturbed by the loud music played during these animal shows). Entrance is free and the kids love it especially the huge replicas of dinosaurs that are close to the Hollywoodesque Baluarte sign.

Philippines Ilocos Sur

The Old Vigan Belltower
Photo by storm-crypt

One of our favorite churches in Ilocos Sur is the St. Augustine Parish Church (also known as Bantay Church) in the nearby town of Bantay. This baroque-gothic style church is one of the oldest in Ilocos Sur (built in 1590) and features a separate belfry on top of a small hill a few meters away- which affords a superb view of the mountains in neighboring province of Abra on one side and with the South China Sea on the opposite side. The church was damaged during World War II and was reconstructed in 1950 with the restored façade now with a neo-gothic design with touches of Romanesque elements. The belfry, which also served as a lookout for approaching enemies (thus the word Bantay means “to guard”), along with the church was constructed using forced labor.

One hour drive south of Vigan is another UNESCO World Heritage Church, the massively baroque Santa Maria Church built in 1769 which also sits on a hill overlooking Santa Maria. This church was used as a fortress during the 1896 Philippine revolution.

If topiaries make you giddy, there is a mini version at the Flores Pots and Hidden Garden. Thick foliage, bamboo covered walks and a huge collection of plants (some of which are for sale) greet you. There is a restaurant and a souvenir shop that sells Vigan-style empanadas – ground meat and egg-with shredded vegetables fried inside thin pastry pockets as well as Basi wines. So far one of the best toilets we ever had – the toilet bowl overlooks a mini-garden – great for a little meditation while doing your business.

Like most Philippine cities and towns, Ilocos Sur is home to fiestas and celebrations. During Easter Season, tourists can join local devotees in religious processions of life-size statues in carrozas. The Vigan City Fiesta meanwhile is celebrated on the third week of January to commemorate the Feast of the Conversion of Saint Paul and the anniversary of Vigan’s cityhood – be on the lookout for its colorful Longganiza Festival.

Viva Vigan Festival of the Arts is probably the most famous of Vigan celebrations and is held every first week of May and includes Binatbatan street dancing, a parade of calesas, exhibition of traditional games, Abel fashion shows and religious rituals in honor of the Black Nazarene and Santacruzan amongst other things.

Vigan also celebrates the World Heritage Cities Solidarity Day every 8 September with events like Repazzo de Vigan, Historia Oral, Visita Museo ken Balbalay, Fotografias y Recuerdos, Comidas de Ayer, a smattering of cultural shows and exhibits.

Discover Asia International Travel and Tours (www.discoverpinas.multiply.com ) organizes trips to Ilocos with stopovers at Vigan and Bantay – kudos to our excellent drivers who also doubled as our tour guides as well. If you are traveling as a group, make sure you make it on time during meeting times – we had the unfortunate situation where a group of fresh university graduates from Leyte and Cebu who were not only exceptionally noisy, but were always late during agreed meeting times. We ended up just renting a tricycle and going around Vigan on our own. Nevertheless, Discover Asia has the cheapest and has the most intensive itineraries we ever came across on this trip and we were quite happy with their services.

 

Why Not Go

For those expecting huge malls or a throbbing nightlife, Ilocos Sur and specifically Vigan might be a big disappointment. Ilocos Sur does not have that urbane appeal of the more industrialized Philippine cities and provinces, but its charms come mostly from its quaint, provincial feel.


Why Go

Ilocos Sur is a treasure trove of history and culture which is a truly amazing destination for fans of Philippine history. Ilocos Sur provides an intimate window to the colorful and oftentimes turbulent colonial past of the Philippines- a must go destination for people who want to see a different face of the Philippines as well as for those who want to understand the country, its myriad cultures and rich heritage a little bit closer than what is normally written in history books. Ilocos Sur is perfect for families, honeymooners and students of history and photography for its unrivalled heritage treasures.


Best Time to Visit

The best time to go to Vigan and in Ilocos Sur in general is during the fiestas and other celebrations as the town comes alive with different activities. A trip during the clear summer months as well affords a stunning bluest of skies – perfect for those postcard perfect photogenic shots of the Kasanglayan.


Where to Stay

Philippines Hotels and Resorts

Save up to 75% on hotels in Philippines

If you are not staying in Vigan or Ilocos Sur for a longer period of time, it would be more convenient to base yourself in Laoag City in Ilocos Norte. However, for extended stays- you can base yourself in any of these hotels, most of which are located near or right in the Mestizo District:

Vigan Heritage Mansion (http://www.viganheritage.com/); Vigan Plaza Hotel (http://www.viganheritage.com/) and Cordillera Inn (Calle Crisologo; +63.77.722.2727).

For more information with other hotels, check with the Vigan Tourism Office (www.vigancity.gov.ph; +63.77.722.8771 to 76)


Where & What to Eat

Philippines Ilocos Sur

Ilocos Cuisine
Photo by Ryan Buaron

A friend told us that Ilocos was a food trip. And she could not have been any more correct. I used to have Vigan Longganiza (Longganiza are Chinese-style sausages, and sometimes used interchangeably with the Spanish word for the sausages – chorizo), and never really quite liked it as I found it too garlicky and sour. My trip to Ilocos changed all that, and yeah, it was love at first bite, err, second or third bite. We were meant to have breakfast at the stylish Café Uno along Bonifacio Street (Vigan Longganiza, Egg and Rice is about PhP 95), but getting there at 8AM on a Friday, the place was unbelievably packed with people and we overheard a kid complaining that they were waiting for 2 hours for their breakfast. We saw people seated with empty plates (not served yet), and we instead left the restaurant and asked a local for other restaurants in the area. We headed instead to a small open-air, modest looking eatery in front of Plaza Burgos named Talakis Food Corner, where we were promptly served for more than half the cost than we would have probably paid for the same thing in Café Uno. For four pieces of Vigan Longganiza, 2 sunny side ups, 2 cups of fried rice and 2 cups of instant coffee set us back PhP 130 – now that is a steal! The best places to eat usually are the places where locals eat: cheap, quick, authentic and unpretentious. Check out the Food Plaza in Vigan for cheap and good eats.

Ilocos Sur is also known for Tinubong, sticky rice dessert snack stuck inside a hollow bamboo – it usually sells for PhP35 a piece and you have to literally smash the bamboo to open it. Fun I say. The best ones from what we heard from the seller are the ones coming from the town of Magsingal. Other notable delicacies (mostly rice-based) are dudol, bibingka, patupat, and suman can be had at the Kankanen makers of Barangay San Jose in Vigan.

Bagnet (deep-fried pork and a huge personal favorite) and Empanadas (egg, ground meat, shredded vegetables fried in paper thin pastry is to die for) are amongst the traditional Ilocos fare that one should never ever miss – unless one is a vegetarian.
Ilocos Sur is also famous for dishes that have names that would usually elicit snickers from Tagalogs as some have pointed reference to the human genitalia – the gourd in the Ilocano dish of Dinengdeng is called Kabatiti; Aubergine omelets are Puki-puki; String beans are called utong; and the Vigan’s milder and chunkier version of that yummy Pampanga’s Sisig is called Warek-Warek.

Philippines Ilocos Sur

Warek-Warek
Photo by Ryan Buaron


Nightlife

Ilocos Sur nightlife centers on the restaurants and cafes in Vigan. What could be more romantic than dinners in a colonial café? It’s best to take a step back and take in the ambience of the past quaffing a bottle of that famous Ilocano sugarcane wine – Basi.


My to do List

1. Take a calesa ride through the Mestizo District.**
2. Visit and shop for Abel Iloco in Barangay Camangaan.*
3. Take a quiet break over Vigan Empanadas amidst lush greenery at the Hidden Garden.*
4. Do a biking tour (Vigan-Bantay) – Contact Dr. Charles Rabara (+63 .77.722.2297)**
5. Go Museum Hopping (Crisologo Museum, Burgos Museum, Syquia and Quema Houses).*
6. Take home Vigan Longganiza.*
7. Check out the churches of Bantay, Santa Maria and St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral.*
8. Try your hands in making your own burnay at the Paburnayan.**
9. Take pictures! Ilocos is an awesome place for photography. So pack that camera and extra memory sticks and head out to Ilocos Sur!
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals


Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Dust Mites. – bring Lysol with you, if you think the hotel room is oldish and not cleaned properly.
3. UV rays – Apply ample sun protection and sunglasses. Ilocos can be pretty humid and searing hot when the sun is out.


Getting There

Philippines Ilocos Sur

Calesas by St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral
Photo by Ryan Buaron

If you are not coming with a tour group, Partas buses are the most reliable forms of transport to Ilocos Sur from Manila as well as Dominion Bus Lines, Aniceto Bus, and Viron Transit which plies the Manila-Vigan route regularly. From Manila, it is an 8-hour, 408-kilometer ride to Vigan along the scenic Manila-Ilocos Highway.

If you are coming from Laoag City in Ilocos Norte, there are domestic flights daily from Manila-Laoag which is then an hour and a half ride by buses (Fariñas, Maria de Leon, RCJ, F. Franco, Autobus and Partas) or rented vans to Vigan.

Tricycles, calesas and rent-a-vans are the mode of transport within Ilocos Sur. Tricycles are PhP 10/head, Calesas are at PhP150/hour (maximum of 4 people. If you are taking your own car and you are coming from Manila, take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX) and then connect through the Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), exit at Hacienda Luisita in Tarlac and follow the National Highway through Pangasinan, La Union with Tagudin the first town of Ilocos Sur. You can get a more detailed map of Northern Luzon (Ilocos Sur included) at one of the bookstores in Manila before you embark on this trip.

Ilocos Norte

Ilocos Norte, which is about 488 kilometers north of the Philippine capital of Manila, means two things to ordinary Filipinos – the late Philippine dictator Ferdinand E. Marcos who was born in the town of Sarrat and the sprawling 77-hectare Fort Ilocandia (http://www.fortilocandia.com.ph/hotel.htm) (one of the largest resorts in the entire Asia), which according to stories, were hastily built by the late President in time for his daughter, Imee’s wedding and primarily caters now to Chinese Mainlanders, Macanese, and Taiwanese high-rollers who fly in to gamble in its casino. So much so that the name Ilocos alone, is almost synonymous with the Marcoses, one of the most controversial Philippine political dynasties in recent memory. Undeserving or not, this hardy and sometimes misunderstood northern province is definitely more than the sum of its contributions to the political history of the country – and in recent years, a wave of change finally came to wake up one of the usually overlooked destinations in the Philippines from hiatus since the fall from grace of its beloved son as more and more Filipinos and the occasional foreigner discover one of the most interesting and beautiful northern frontiers of the Philippines.

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Paoay Church
Photo by Caloy and Myra

Like the other provinces in the region, which is usually collectively known as Ilocos, Ilocos Norte shares a deep history with its neighboring provinces. The extensive region was renowned for its gold mines and merchants from ancient China and Japan would visit and trade gold in exchange for beads, ceramics and silk with the early inhabitants of Samtoy, as the locals once called their place from “sao mi toy”, which meant “our language.” As the Spanish conquistadors solidified their control of Manila in 1571, Miguel Lopez de Legazpi’s grandson, Juan de Salcedo led an expedition to the North. After arriving and annexing Vigan in Ilocos Sur on 13 June 1572, Salcedo then marched onward towards Laoag, Currimao and Badoc towns (part of what is present day Ilocos Norte). This was when Salcedo found the natives lived in villages in small bays on coves called “looc” in the local dialect. The natives by the coast were referred to as “Ylocos” which meant “from the lowlands” (the “Igorots” of the Cordilleras on the other hand meant “from the highlands”). Subsequently, the Spaniards called the region “Ylocos” or “Ilocos” and its people “Ilocanos.”

Christianization grew and flourished under the watchful eyes of the Spaniards and this eventually transformed the landscape of the region as vast tracks of available land were appropriated and utilized for churches and belfries in the Spanish policy of reducciones, which are formation of communities to facilitate the Hispanicization and eventually the Christianization of the region. Then, communities were scattered and living in one was determined by bloodlines – these communities were moved to be in these new missions which were called bajo la campanas or within hearing distance of the church bells. Thus, it is not uncommon to find garrisons under church bells in town squares. The widespread building of churches in Ilocos resulted to stunning architectural marvels that we still see today, the most famous, and I reckon one of the most beautiful churches in the Philippines, is the gorgeous Paoay Church, built in 1704 (finished 90 years later) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a church of “Earthquake Baroque” style with 24 massive brick reinforcements running along its sides with walls made out of coral rocks, baked bricks, lumber, limestone mortar and sugarcane juice. Paoay Church is a unique fusion of Gothic, Baroque and Oriental touches as its façade has touches of Gothic familiarity, Chinese elements in its gables and a Javanese feel in its niches. It stands in all its beauty and splendor (pretty much how I imagined it to be when I first saw a picture of the church when I was in grade school) in front of a wide-open square, unlike the churches in other parts of the Philippines which are almost choked by houses and businesses.

Also in Paoay is a more modern structure with historical and political significance – the Malacañang Ti Amianan (Malacañang of the North- a reference to the Malacañang Palace in Manila which is the official residence of Philippine Presidents – makes you kind of wonder if indeed, Marcos intended to be a President for as long as he lived), a large, airy and colonial-inspired former residence of the Marcos family with sweeping views of the scenic Paoay Lake. Admission is PhP20. The building is not very well-kept and in various states of disrepair – peeling paint, discolored walls, and we saw a cow grazing right next to a grimy swimming pool t next to the house.

4 Kilometers East of Paoay Church is Batac whose main attraction is the Marcos Mansion and Mausoleum where the glass-encased, embalmed body of Ferdinand E. Marcos lies in state on a mattress in an air-conditioned, dark and somber room while visitors file and have a glance at the body. Entrance is free but photography is not allowed inside the mausoleum (one guy’s camera was confiscated as he tried to sneak shots of the body, the camera was returned after making sure the offending photos were deleted.) Apparently the body was covered in wax, to preserve it well and make the late President look a lot like he was in his younger years; although Filipino conspiracy theorists suspect that the body is fake and just another con to perpetuate the Marcoses dubious political legacy. Well, I am not an expert on cadavers; I’d just rather leave it to the experts this time. Other Marcos memorabilia is on hand is also on view as well as the dictator’s writings, one of which was inscribed on marble outside the mausoleum: which more or less were ramblings which attempt to impress the visitors of the strongman’s intellectual and literary prowess.

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Currimao Rock Formations

Southwest of Batac are the towns of Currimao and Badoc. Currimao is known for its rock formations (which pretty much looked like dried up coral beds that stretch along most of its coastline fronting the South China Sea and the spectacular sunsets at Pangil. Among the rock formations, there are little lagoons which are nice for swimming. There are almost no accommodations here save for 2-4 open-air huts scattered along the coastline. Most just drive to the area and then leave in the late afternoon. The island of Badoc (of Badoc town) meanwhile is a surfing destination secret and not much is known of the area except that a few intrepid Australians surf the area. The waves are inconsistent but it is apparently on fire from October to early March and of course when there are typhoons or tropical depressions out in the South China Sea. The famous breaks are the Badoc Island Lefts (waves can get higher than 3 meters), Badoc Point (breaks are powerful with surfing up to 2.5 meters), Star Tubes (1-2 meter left hander), Turtle Head Rights (waves consistent up to two meters and hits a shallow reef). The island is uninhabited and all accommodations are on the mainland.

Aside from surfing, Badoc is also known as the birthplace of foremost Filipino painter, Father of Philippine Romanticism, and Philippine revolutionary hero Juan Luna. Luna’s most famous painting is the Spoliarium, a painting demanded of him by the Ayuntamiento, which was then sent to Madrid’s Exposición Nacional de Bellas Artes of 1884 which he won with three gold medals awarded in concourse. The painting depicts a chamber under a Roman arena where bodies of dead gladiators were being dragged into a shadowy area, possibly to be dumped in a bigger pile of dead bodies. The painting now hangs in the Main Gallery of the National Museum of the Philippines in Manila. His other works are the La Battala de Lepanto which was commissioned by the Spanish Senate and the El Pacto de Sangre which depicts the blood compact between Datu Sikatuna of Bohol and Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi which is now displayed in the Malacañang Palace, the Rendicion de Granada and Ecce Homo. You should be able to visit the Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc which is a reconstruction of the two-storey house in which he was born (original house was burned down in 1861) which features a family gallery with vintage photographs of the Luna family, reproductions of the Spoliarium and El Pacto de Sangre and period accessories and furniture which is pretty common in museums and shrines in the region.

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Sinking Bell Tower of Laoag
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Going up further north is the city of Laoag, the provincial capital, which compared to Vigan in Ilocos Sur is a lot busier, and bustling with trade and commerce. Laoag City (which also has an international airport) serves as a jump off point and is the most convenient place to base yourselves if you plan to hop on to most of the destinations in the neighboring provinces of Ilocos Sur, Abra, Benguet and Cagayan. Laoag has a handful of attractions, the most intriguing of which is the Sinking Bell Tower, 85 meters away from the St. William’s Cathedral, which is one of the biggest cathedrals of the Philippines and concurrently the seat of the Diocese of Laoag. The Cathedral was then occupied by the Revolutionists of 1898 and by the American forces the succeeding year. The 45 meter high Sinking Bell Tower is considered to be one of, if not the tallest edifice built in the entire Ilocos Norte. Stories claim that when it was built, a person on a horseback could pass through its doors freely, but today, one has to stoop very low just to get inside the bell tower. Another Laoag attraction is the Museo Ilocos Norte (also known as “Gameng” – Ilocano for treasure) which is close to the Provincial Capitol and is the repository of Ilocano heritage and culture. The museum is housed in a former Tabacalera warehouse, a former factory for tobacco which the region is known for, and a throwback to the heydays of the Tobacco Monopoly during the Spanish period. The museum is open during weekdays (except during lunch) for a minimal fee.

On the outskirts of Laoag, one can find the 52 square miles of seemingly endless coastal sand dunes of La Paz (Suba), where scenes from Born of the Fourth of July and Mad Max along with many Filipino movies were filmed.

Philippines Ilocos Norte

La Paz Sand Dunes
Photo by storm-crypt

After Laoag going north is the town of Bacarra famous for its Church which was constructed in 1593 and inaugurated in 1782 (destroyed in the massive 7.8 magnitude earthquake in August 1983 and reconstructed and inaugurated August of the following year. The main attraction however is its domeless belfry built in 1830, made up of coral and stucco whose original height was 50 meters with a wall five meters thick. The 1931 earthquake destroyed it, causing the top portions to tilt to the right (thus, it was once called the Leaning Tower of Bacarra). The tower was built away from the church similar to other churches in the region, to reduce the damage in case the tower comes crashing down in another major earthquake. This proved to be the case as the dome finally crumbled during the last big tremor as one can still see the pile of grass-covered brick debris strewn around the side of Bacarra Tower (a big cross is currently hanging from its top). Aside from the church and the bell-tower, we found the Bacarra town hall nearby quite charming with its Filipino-Spanish-Mexican architectural finishes as well as its deep blue paint which kind of reminded us something out of a vivid Dora The Explorer cartoon.

Further north are the towns of Pasuquin, Burgos, Bangui, Pagudpud, Dumalneg and Adams. Pasuquin is known for its salt-making and chunks and chunks of salt can be seen by the coast as well as the requisite rows and rows of tiny huts along the road selling the town’s famous produce. It was also in Pasuquin and Burgos that we noticed two quirky things, a hotel (Palalay Hotel) which has an ocean view but, and I am not kidding, is right next to a graveyard (now that’s what I call ambience) and a beach resort which is called Sexy Beach Resort – made us chuckle to see the sign: Sexy Beach Entrance.

The town of Burgos is also known for the oldest lighthouse, as well as the most visited lighthouse in the Philippines – the impressive Cape Bojeador Lighthouse (Tagalog – Ang Parola ng Cape Bojeador) was completed on 30 March 1892 and sits majestically on top of the lush Vigia de Nagparitan hill which also makes it as the tallest lighthouse in the Philippines with its tower 20 meters high (total height is about 160-170 meters high) .The brick-made lighthouse tower stands like a graceful sentinel of the treacherous seas around and is still functioning to date. Entrance is free, but the aged tower can only comfortably accommodate up to 4-5 people and affords the visitor a spectacular view of the rugged mountains and the beautiful waters of South China Sea. The design and construction was initially supervised by Engineer Magin Pers Y Pers and finished by Engineer Guillermo Brockman. The lighthouse has a little museum housed in one of the two weather-beaten brick buildings which can make anyone wax romantic (as long as one is not trampled by crowds of tourists trying to queue up to get into this really nice building during weekends), and a small and lovely courtyard. On a clear day, the lighthouse can be seen as far away as the towns of Pasuquin and Bangui.

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Bangui Windmills
Photo by World Bank Philippines

After the town of Burgos is Bangui, which gained tourism fame when in 2005, the first wind farm in Southeast Asia started operations with 15 wind turbines of about 70 meters tall rose along the 9-kilometer stretch of the beach on Bangui Bay. The turbines supply the Ilocos Norte Electric Cooperative with about 25 Megawatts of power. Discussions are rife of putting up additional 40 wind turbines in the mountains of the area. Tourists started flocking to the turbines which look like giant white fans, which makes it as a lovely spot for great photography. According to one of the locals however, the windmills have caused an adverse effect on the fishing industry in the area as the sound of the windmills scare away the fish which are the primary livelihood of the area. On the other hand, Northwind Power, the company that operates the windmills remits one centavo (PhP 0.01) to the Department of Energy for every kilowatt sold, half of which goes to an electrification fund, watershed management, environmental enhancement and health fund – whether any of these funds go to the affected locals in the area is anybody’s guess – we found two stalls selling Bangui honey and Ilocos garlic in the area and the old man manning his rickety shop seemed to be quite happy about the tourists flocking in the area.

Being an inveterate beach bum myself, I could not resist a trip to the town of Pagudpud famous for its white sand beaches which consists of the beaches of Pansian (which is close to the border of the province of Cagayan and usually deserted), Maira-ira (also known as the Blue Lagoon but more like a cove than a lagoon), and Saud (its two kilometer arc was named by the Sunday Herald Sun as the number 1 of the best, but lesser known beaches in Asia). Maira-ira, we reckon has the best and the bluest waters and on an Independence Day weekend, we were surprised that there were not throngs of people there (although one of the locals told us that during Easter, the beach is clogged with a lot of tourists and the traffic of cars going to the lagoon can be pretty bad). The beach is considerably clean (though we saw a little bit of trash – it was fairly manageable), and the waters are nice and warm. The sand is not too shifty either and the idyllic scenery is occasionally punctured by the sound of whizzing of banana boat rides (which we think should be banned from the area soon).

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Saud Beach, Pagudpud
Photo by storm-crypt

Going to Saud from Maira-ira can be a little tricky. There are not a lot of tricycles nor vehicles ferrying people unless you hire one at the Pagudpud town proper yourself (PhP 600 for a trip around the area). We ended up leaving the tour group in Maira-ira and took a korong-korong, a tricycle without any cover at all and mostly used for deliveries rather than transporting people. It probably took us about 30 minutes to Saud, which was almost deserted. The waters are rougher in Saud in June but the beach is wider, cleaner and longer and the sand is a little finer (although Boracay still wins hands down when it comes to sand quality- although there are less people and zero touts in Pagudpud) than Maira-ira. Most of the accommodations in Pagudpud are in this area and a cold San Miguel is easy to get from any of the resorts’ restaurants. From Saud, one can see the windmills of Bangui in the distance. If you have to go back to Laoag the same day, you can take a tricycle from any of the resorts and head to the very sleepy Pagudpud town proper by about 4-4:30PM you should be able to catch an open-air bus to Laoag. An air-conditioned bus leaves for Manila via Laoag at 7PM, but when there is really nothing to do in the town proper, might as well take that non-air-conditioned one.

The other towns of Ilocos Norte have their own attractions as well – there is rock-climbing in Adams (which according to a friend, as the town has zero crime rate – one can rent the town jail for the night); the winding Patapat Viaduct which hugs coastline and the Agua Grande River Park at its end; beautiful waterfalls up the Karingking River in Solsona as well as the Kabigan Falls of Pagudpud; birdwatching in Marcos town and the red-bricked, Baroque and Neo-classical Style, controversial Santa Monica Church in Sarrat where Marcos’ daughter Irene had her fairytale wedding to Greg Araneta, where the entire town was converted in a Potemkin village – which included whitewashing of the antique altars and the entire stock of Colonial Filipino costumes at the Cultural Center of the Philippines brought to Sarrat to dress its townsfolk to complete the theme transforming the farming village into a Spanish-Filipino colonial town and a red carpet that stretched out for miles. The wedding cost roughly US$10 Million, not including the new hotel and airport. Two months later, a powerful earthquake destroyed the church’s belfry and the altar of Santa Monica. The church’s ruins has a torture room that features two brick-encrusted pillars which according to a Filipino historian were used to hang Filipinos accused of treason during the Spanish regime.

There is almost a festival happening every month in Ilocos Norte (except for the months of July, August and October) but the most famous is the Empanada Festival of Batac in June and the Pamulinawen Festival in Laoag City in February.

Why Not Go

There is not a single megamall in Ilocos Norte for those missing the humungous malls of Manila, although Laoag has a quaint Friday Night Market by the river (we didn’t find anything interesting though with rows of second-hand clothes, pirated DVDs, books and some food stands – although the atmosphere is quite jovial if not quirky). We found Laoag generally safe and the people helpful and friendly, although as common sense dictates, stay away from areas that are not well-lit at night.


Why Go

Travelling Ilocos Norte gives a lot bang for your buck as the province is literally crammed with a lot of historical places, nooks for adventures, fine beaches and excellent cuisine that is indigenous to the region. It is perfect for the sportsman whether for surfing in Badoc, golfing in Fort Ilocandia, Rock-climbing in Adams, Trekking in Solsona and Nueva Era; excellent for families and people on the lookout for white sandy beaches; must-go for fans of architecture and history and a requirement for a traveling gourmand.


Best Time to Visit

The best time to go and check Ilocos Norte is during the drier months and during the summer months as the waves at the beaches of Pagudpud can get pretty rough during the wet season. For surfers, it is a different story, typhoons and tropical depressions can help fuel the waves off the Badoc Coast – requisite conditions for surfing. Otherwise, check the local weather with the Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical & Astronomical Services Administration (
www.pagasa.dost.gov.ph ) for weather forecasts – when the weather in Ilocos is great, then it is time to pack your bags and head to Ilocos Norte!


Where to Stay

Philippines Hotels and Resorts

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There are a lot of places to stay in Ilocos Norte (mostly in Laoag) from the super-swanky Fort Ilocandia Resort & Casino (www.fortilocandia.com.ph) to Saud Beach Resort (www.saudbeachresort.com) and Villa del Mar (+63.919.899.5673/+63.920.553.4161) in Saud Beach, Pagudpud.

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Java Hotel
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

If you get past by the fact that directly in front of it is a gas station (the driveway IS the gas station itself), the Balinese-Moroccan inspired Java Hotel (www.javahotel.com.ph ) on G. Segundo Avenue (Bacarra Road), classified as a First Class Hotel is actually a very good place to stay and base yourself as it is right on the highway going to Pagudpud and Cagayan in the North and is just about 1 and ½ hours away from Vigan in Ilocos Sur. It has 46 rooms well-appointed rooms complete with Cable TV, IDD/NDD access, a mini-bar with a fridge, hot/cold shower and a bath tub in its suite. The area also has free Wi-Fi. The building was tastefully designed by the top architectural firm in the Philippines – Palafox Associates, whose founder hails from the nearby town of Bacarra. The staff are very attentive and friendly. For PhP1,800 which is a Standard Double – the room was big, clean and actually can put some of the Manila hotels to shame. The hotel is best for travelling families and groups of friends. During a talk with Mr. Nelson Abadilla, the Operations Manager, he said that the hotel is set to expand by 2010 adding a new building, establishing the hotel into another important Laoag landmark.


Where & What to Eat

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Bagnet
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Like the rest of Ilocos region, Ilocos Norte is not an exception when it comes to gastronomic adventures. The best meals we ever had was at the Dap-ayan ti Ilocos Norte (Rizal Avenue corner Llanes Avenue, Laoag City) which is a small enclosed complex of open-air restaurants – the best place to satisfy your need to have some of that Laoag Empanada (Batac has its own version of Empanada) – egg, shredded vegetables and longganiza inside fried thin pastry pockets. Laoag Miki is also served here and was equally sumptuous as well- despite its unusually bright and orangey color. Meals range from PhP35 up which wasn’t bad as our tummies were pretty happy after eating at the Dap-ayan. The Ilocano trademark Bagnet, which is basically scrumptious cholesterol-clogging goodness of deep-fried pork is available but we suggest that you get your fix somewhere else (we got half a kilo of bagnet at the second floor of the Laoag City Wet Market for only PhP175). The tapas of Java Hotel’s Eagle’s Nest restaurant was very tasty especially when dipped with the local spiked sugarcane vinegar called Sukang Iloko (Get your stuff at legit looking shops instead off the highway; we were warned that some of the stuff sold by the highway is watered down).

Ilocano fare is quite diverse: For those craving for the exotic, one should never miss the “abu-os” or ant eggs to vegetable broths called Dinengdeng. Herencia de Paoay in Paoay is known for their Pinakbet Pizza and Dinuguan Pizza.

We also ate at the Chicken Ati-atihan (G. Segundo Avenue, Laoag) and ordered Sizzling Chicken with Potatoes and Vegetables and we were shocked to find the “potatoes” was a single thin slice of fried potato the size of nickel and the “vegetables” was a single string bean sliced in half. The chicken was tiny and sprinkled with barbeque sauce that obviously came from a packet.

Don’t forget to get a bottle of the local spirit- sugarcane wine named Basi (the expropriation of which sparked the Basi Revolt in Piddig town in 1807. The Spaniards banned the private manufacturing of the wine and mandated that Basi should be bought from government stores.) The wine has a bit of an acrid, dry, earthy taste with strong hints of sugarcane – not exactly my favorite, but was worth a try.


Nightlife

Ilocos Norte nightlife is virtually composed of unimpressive restaurant-bars in Laoag, especially in the shady Discolandia district which can be as camp as it gets (a police report online tells of an arrest in one of the bars in the area in an operation by the local police against unauthorized possession of firearms) . Other than that the resorts of Saud in Pagudpud have quite good places to dine and drink.

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse
Photo by Huno


My to do List

1. Climb up the dramatic Cape Bojeador Lighthouse.*
2. Visit the windmills of Bangui.*
3. Trek up the river of Karingking in Solsona and take a dip by the magnificent waterfalls.*
4. Chill out on the beaches of Pagudpud**
5. Check out the Sinking Bell Tower of Laoag and the Domeless Belfry of Bacarra.*
6. Sample yummy Ilocano chow at Dap-ayan ti Ilocos Norte – the Laoag Empanada is just uber-delicious.*
7. Catch the sunset at Pangil in Currimao.*
8. Walk around the sand dunes of La Paz.*
9. Stroll the lovely grounds in front of the majestic Paoay Church.**
10. Take the surfing challenge off Badoc Coast.*
11. Get a glimpse of Philippine History and visit the Malacañang Ti Amianan and the Marcos Mausoleum.**
12. Make your friends at home jealous and take pictures! Ilocos is a great place for photography*

* – Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals


Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Dust Mites. – bring Lysol with you, if you think the hotel room is oldish and not cleaned properly.
3. UV rays – Apply ample sun protection and sunglasses. Ilocos can be pretty humid and searing hot when the sun is out.


Getting There

Philippines Ilocos Norte

Buses plying the Laoag-Pagudpud route
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Laoag City is 45 minutes away by plane from Manila (Through Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific Airlines) and also serves as an international gateway with the Laoag City International Airport which receives chartered flights from China and Taiwan (Mandarin Airlines currently has suspended its flights from Kaohsiung).

If you are not coming with a tour group, Partas buses are the most reliable form of transport to Ilocos Norte from Manila as well as RCJ, Philippine Rabbit, Maria de Leon, Florida and Fariñas Trans.
Philippine Rabbit and Partas also do connecting trips to Baguio while GMW heads to Tuguegarao via Pagudpud.

Tricycles, calesas and rent-a-vans are the mode of transport within Ilocos Norte. Tricycles are PhP 10/head, If you are taking your own car and you are coming from Manila, take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX) and then connect through the Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), exit at Hacienda Luisita in Tarlac and follow the National Highway through Pangasinan, La Union and Ilocos Sur. You can get a more detailed map of Northern Luzon (Ilocos Norte included) at one of the bookstores in Manila before you embark on this trip.

Laoag City is about 9-12 hours away by land from Manila, 6 ½ hours from Tuguegarao and 5 hours away from Baguio City.